Simone Abbarchi – Bespoke Shirt – First Fitting

First article on the bespoke shirt from Simone Abbarchi isĀ here.

48 hours after the initial meeting with Simone and Gianluca we came back to the atelier for a fitting of the trial shirt (comprised from a basic cotton). This fitting is typically used to get the overall fit of the shirt largely correct, with the second fitting designed to then dial in the fit to its finished form.

Overall there were just a number of small changes, rather than any one area needing a significant adjustment, which is a sign that Simone’s original measurements were quite accurate.

As is pretty common with any bespoke shirt or jacket I have made, the lower back inevitably ends up having to come in more than anyone thought initially, as my back dips in fairly sharply towards my tailbone. So we increased the size of the darts there, as well as shortening the sleeve length a little, taking in some excess from under the arms, as well as taking in some width in the upper arms. The collar was spot on and didn’t need any adjustment and the overall length seemed fine. The shirt sits cleanly across the shoulders, which is a good effort this early on, given that the distance from my neck to my right shoulder is a fair bit narrower due to having broken that collarbone a few times over the years.

As mentioned above, at the first fitting you’re usually expecting a smaller number of changes to bring the shirt roughly to its finished shape, with the next fitting often requiring a higher number of changes to be made, but on a smaller scale to finesse the shirt to it’s finished state.

Next article up on the second fitting in a couple of weeks.

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6 Comments

  1. says: David Andrews

    Thank you for the excellent information. And I can vouch for the clothing and service provided by Sartoria Vestrucci…just dreaming of the next opportunity I might have to visit !

  2. says: James

    Hi Andrew, can’t see any follow up to this piece – can you advise how the rest of the bespoke process went with Simone?

    1. says: Andrew Doyle

      Hi James,

      Yep, I’ll do this shortly.
      The finished shirts are nice, but there are inconsistencies in fit (some have longer arms, some have shorter bodies). The lesson I took from this is to perfect a fit/pattern in person with the first couple of shirts, before moving to multiple/remote orders.

  3. says: Julian

    Hi Andrew,

    I can’t seem to find the follow-up article on Simone bespoke shirt. How long did it take to complete the process? How does it compare to other shirtmakers?

    1. says: Andrew Doyle

      Hi Julian. Sorry for the delay. Blog has been on the backburner whilst dealing with Covid and the kids. I will post an article soon, but in short – the shirts arrived within a few weeks, fir is generally good, but with a couple of inconsistencies across the 3 shirts (some sleeves slightly longer, bodies slightly shorter. Would likely be corrected with first few shirts all being fitted in person, a pattern dialed in, then going ahead remotely thereafter.

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