Fittings are a funny thing. Depending on the tailor and the specific commission, you could walk out of the second fitting with an almost finished suit, or be coming back in for a 5th fitting, still trying to get something as simple as sleeve length correct (if it gets to that point after 5 fittings, something has gone wrong). It’s a credit to Bijan and Josh that even though this has been my first commission with them, the fit has been very good right from the start, with only minor tweaks needed as the coat comes together. The first posts in this commission can be found here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3
This fitting, the third, was really just to be sure that the small changes we’d made in the 2nd fitting (slightly widening the shoulders, lengthening one sleeve and adding a little more suppression to the waist) were exactly as we’d hoped. They were. The coat is now well balanced and in proportion, ready for the final details to be added.
The sleeve lining had been inserted and it was pleasing to see how the small highlights of colour in the sleeves provided subtle contrast with the overall understated aesthetic of the coat.
Lastly, the buttons. Out of an antique drawer came a box of horn buttons (from Italian button makers Gritti). Because there’s so much variation with every button as horn is a natural product, the goal here is to decide on the right shade of colour, then try to find enough other buttons which are similar. Once we’d come up with the ones we felt were most complementary to the blue of the linen, we positioned them on the sleeves to make sure they looked correct alongside each other. We also selected a single, larger button, for the waist closure.
The buttons on a coat should slightly overlap, with the front of one button resting on top of the edge of the last, or as Mariano Rubinacci is known for saying “they should kiss”. This gives your forearms a little more to rest on when against a chairs arm or a table and protects the cloth a little more. It also looks nice.
The only other point which required addressing (which I missed but Bijan spotted straight away) was a slight kink to the lining (see image below) which Bijan unpicked and re-stitched in about 3 minutes.
The final touches will be added in the coming weeks and I’ll be in to pick up the finished coat.