Bijan – Bespoke Linen Sport Coat – Part 4 – Final Fitting

Fittings are a funny thing. Depending on the tailor and the specific commission, you could walk out of the second fitting with an almost finished suit, or be coming back in for a 5th fitting, still trying to get something as simple as sleeve length correct (if it gets to that point after 5 fittings, something has gone wrong). It’s a credit to Bijan and Josh that even though this has been my first commission with them, the fit has been very good right from the start, with only minor tweaks needed as the coat comes together. The first posts in this commission can be found here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3

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This fitting, the third, was really just to be sure that the small changes we’d made in the 2nd fitting (slightly widening the shoulders, lengthening one sleeve and adding a little more suppression to the waist) were exactly as we’d hoped. They were. The coat is now well balanced and in proportion, ready for the final details to be added.

The sleeve lining had been inserted and it was pleasing to see how the small highlights of colour in the sleeves provided subtle contrast with the overall understated aesthetic of the coat.

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If you look at the left lapel, you can see the raised profile of the Milanese Button Hole

Lastly, the buttons. Out of an antique drawer came a box of horn buttons (from Italian button makers Gritti). Because there’s so much variation with every button as horn is a natural product, the goal here is to decide on the right shade of colour, then try to find enough other buttons which are similar. Once we’d come up with the ones we felt were most complementary to the blue of the linen, we positioned them on the sleeves to make sure they looked correct alongside each other. We also selected a single, larger button, for the waist closure.

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The final selection of buttons. They look darker in this image, but in person they are a warm shade of brown with some small flecks of creme

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The buttons on a coat should slightly overlap, with the front of one button resting on top of the edge of the last, or as Mariano Rubinacci is known for saying “they should kiss”. This gives your forearms a little more to rest on when against a chairs arm or a table and protects the cloth a little more. It also looks nice.

A close up of the hand stitching for the lining

A close up of the hand stitching for the lining

The only other point which required addressing (which I missed but Bijan spotted straight away) was a slight kink to the lining (see image below) which Bijan unpicked and re-stitched in about 3 minutes.

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Just to the left centre of the top of the pocket, where the lining meets the linen, you can see a small chalk line, showing where the lining needed to be moved down slightly.

The final touches will be added in the coming weeks and I’ll be in to pick up the finished coat.

Andrew is an Australian born writer, covering the world's leading bespoke tailors and craftspeople in menswear, with a focus on authentic quality, over branding. He spends most of his days running his successful (god knows how) consulting company and travels frequently to Europe for work and writing. He's a passionate cyclist, former trainee professional golfer and lover of all things Cocker Spaniel. He's married to his best friend and significantly better half, Mehri. They have 2 little boys born 11 months apart, which was funny for about 2 seconds before reality set in.

2 Comments

  • Reply July 8, 2014

    Nik Ismail almurtadza

    Andrew,Thanks for posting the Linen jacket by Bijan.A few questions:
    1.The cloth Linen is it from the London Lounge Linen Collection?
    2.What is the starting price for a sports jacket and suits(if you don’t mind telling)?.
    3.I like the cut of your trousers.Is it by Bijan,also.

    Nik

    • Reply July 8, 2014

      Andrew Doyle

      Hi Nik,

      1. Funnily enough, we have no idea who made it. It was from an old bolt of cloth Bijan had for a long time. He knows it’s Italian, but can’t remember the manufacturer. I wasn’t too bothered as it was obviously well made and that takes priority for me.
      2. A coat with Bijan will start at around $4,000 AUD and a 2 piece suit approx $5,500.
      3. These were made a while ago, by my first tailor, from Canberra. The cloth is from Dugdale Brothers “English Classics and Town Classics” bunch.

      Regards,

      Andrew.

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